FUNCTION

Eyebrows serve two main functions: first, communication through facial expression, and second, prevention of sweat, water, and other debris from falling down into the eye socket.

GROWTH CYCLE

As with any hair in the body, brow hairs have a growth cycle – it sheds and grows back. Brows usually have a life cycle of 100-150 days. Typically 3 to 5 hairs are shed per day, depending on genetics, health and environmental factors. It takes approximately 4-16 weeks for a hairs to complete an entire growth cycle. If they are pulled out prematurely, they usually grow back in 90 days - given that there is no damage to the hair follicle.

There are three different growth phases in the life cycle: anagen, catagen and telogen.

Phase 1: Anagen (Growth) Phase - 30 to 45 Days

The anagen phase is when the hairs are actively growing. Each hair has a daily growth rate of 0.12mm to 0.14mm, and will usually reach a maximum length of 12mm by the end of this phase (30 to 45 days).

Phase 2: Catagen (Transition) Phase – 14 to 21 Days

The catagen phase is when the hairs stop growing, and the hair follicle shrinks. It takes approximately 14 to 21 days for this phase to complete. If a hair is pulled out during this phase, it will not grow back immediately as the follicle needs to complete the catagen phase.

Phase 3: Telogen (Resting) Phase – 100+ Days

The Telogen Phase is when the full-grown hairs are resting - this can last more than 100 days before the hair falls out and triggers the growth cycle to begin again.

At any point in time, clients will have hair in every phase of the growth cycle. As such, it is normal for clients to naturally shed 2-5 hairs daily. This is important to understand since the growth cycle is the reason why brow laminations only last up to 6-8 weeks. Hairs grow, shed, and eventually a new hairs will replace the old one.

Brow lamination only changes the shape of the hair that Is processed – it does not change the shape of the hair that grows out. The brows may a bit unruly towards the 4 week mark as it grows out. The faster the natural hairs grow, the sooner the brow lamination will grow out. To maintain the sleek laminated appearance, we recommend using proper aftercare, proper styling products and scheduling a re-lamination appointment every 6-8 weeks.

BIOLOGICAL FACTORS THAT AFFECT THE GROWTH CYCLE

Medications are designed to treat various health conditions, but may have side effects that can disrupt the natural growth and composition of hair. The severity of side effects depends on the type of drug, dosage, and time they've been on it.

Depending on the medication, it can contribute to excess hair loss. There are two types of hair loss caused by disruption of the growth cycle: anagen effluvium and telogen effluvium. Anagen Effluvium hair loss is caused by a disruption in the growing phase and hair follicle damage - this usually occurs in those undergoing chemotherapy or radiation. As 80-90% of lashes are in the anagen phase, a large number of lashes and follicles are affected. Telogen Effluvium hair loss is caused by the shortening of the growth cycle. The hair follicles enter the telogen phase too soon and cause the lashes to shed prematurely. Those with this condition will usually shed 30-70% more than normal.

Common Medication with Hair Loss as a Side Effect

- Acne medications containing vitamin A (retinoids)

- Antibiotics and anti-fungal drugs

- Antidepressants

- Birth control pills

- Anti-clotting drugs

- Cholesterol-lowering drugs

- Drugs that suppress the immune system

- Drugs that treat breast cancer and other cancers

- Epilepsy drugs (anticonvulsants)

- High blood pressure medications (anti-hypertensives), such as beta-blockers, ACE inhibitors, and diuretics

- Hormone replacement therapy

- Mood stabilizers

- Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs)

- Parkinson's disease drugs

- Steroids

- Tamoxifen blocks the estrogen receptor to prevent breast cancer.

- Thyroid medications

- Weight loss drugs

Clients who are on medication are still suitable for a brow lamination, given that there are no other contraindications that would deem it unsafe to do so. Medication affects everyone differently, so not everyone will experience hair loss. Regardless, it is important to discuss the possibility of the medication affecting their results. 

MEDICATIONS AFFECTING THE GROWTH CYCLE

Hormones

Natural hair growth is regulated by hormones – androgens, estrogens, thyroid and parathyroid hormones, prolactin, corticosteroids, somatotropin and melatonin.

The most crucial hormone contributing to hair growth is the thyroid hormone, as it ensures the proper metabolism of proteins, fats, carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals. Once metabolized, these nutrients are delivered to different organs. High levels of thyroid hormones causes lashes to grow faster. Low levels of thyroid hormones causes lashes to grow slower. Changes in the environment will change the thyroid hormone levels in the body. The body has the lowest thyroid hormone level in the winter, medium level in summer and autumn and the highest in the spring. As a result, hair grows the slowest in the winter and fastest in the spring.

Adrenaline is a hormone that is naturally produced by the body. During high-stress periods, the body produces an excess amount of adrenaline which gets converted into cholesterol. The raised levels of cholesterol results in increased levels of testosterone. In women, a raised level of testosterone can affect the hair growth cycle by prematurely causing the hairs to enter the telogen phase, which results in hair loss.

Vitamins

Vitamin A, B, C, D and E are vital for hair growth. Vitamin A helps cells grow and help skin glands produce sebum to keep hair moisturized and healthy. Vitamin B is essential for keeping hair follicles oxygenated and helps deliver nutrients to the hair follicles for growth. Vitamin C prevents damage from free radicals and hair from aging. It also aids in iron absorption, which is essential for hair growth. Vitamin D is linked to the production of new hair follicles, which leads to increased hair density. Vitamin E prevents oxidative stress and promotes hair growth.

Age

There are so many changes that happen as the body ages, affecting the hair growth cycle and health of the hair. It is entirely normal for hair to start thinning as we age. The hair growth cycle can slow down or completely stop due to a drop in certain hormones. The skin surrounding the hair become drier, which prevents the hair from retaining moisture and therefore causes them to become brittle and break. 

Age also has a huge effect on the strength and growth cycle of lashes, due to change in hormonal and protein levels. Hairs get weaker and thinner with age as hormone levels and building blocks for hair growth decreases. Older clientele should be laminated with caution, as the natural hairs are weaker. Lifting weak brow hairs can damage the hairs. 

Pregnancy, Postpartum and Menopause

These are the three most significant hormonal shifts women will go through, which will affect the hair growth cycle. These hormonal shifts are phases, meaning that the disruption in the growth cycle is usually temporary. Typically, the hair growth cycle will return to normal once the body's hormones are balanced again.

Pregnancy causes a surge of hormones going through the body that affects the growth and texture of the hair. Some women notice quicker growth and shinier hair by week 20 of pregnancy. A brow lamination will grow out quicker due to the growth cycle speeding up. In other cases, hair can also become drier and more brittle, resulting in them breaking. The hair can also become resistant from lifting due to hormonal changes. We do not recommend serving those who are pregnant as the brow laminations come into contact with the skin and can potentially by absorbed by the body. Should a reaction occur, it is very difficult to treat. 

Postpartum lash loss (and hair loss) is due to the drop in estrogen levels after giving birth. The decline in estrogen causes the hair to grow slowly and triggers the increase in the production of androgens which causes the hair to fall out. The most significant loss usually occurs within 4 to 5 months after giving birth and typically slows down after three months.

Menopause is the time that marks the end of the menstrual cycle. It can happen anywhere between the age of 40 to 58. Hair loss is caused by the drop in estrogen and progesterone, and the increase in the production of androgens.

Hormonal shifts are different for everyone, so it's impossible to predict whether a client will have good or bad results. It's important to discuss with your client to ensure that they're aware of the results. 

ANATOMY

Hair is composed of two elements: hair follicle and hair shaft. The hair follicle/root is the living part of the hair located underneath the skin responsible for the growth of the hair shaft. The hair shaft is the non-living part of the hair that lives above the skin. The purpose of hair is to regulate body temperature, extend our sense of touch, and protect our bodies from harmful objects.

Sebaceous Gland is an oil-producing gland that deposits sebum onto the hair and skin.

Hair Root/Follicle serves as an anchor for the hair shaft.

Dermal Papilla is responsible for the regulation of hair growth.

Nerve acts as a sensitive touch receptor.

Blood Vessels provide nourishment to the hair follicle and also remove waste.

Sweat Gland regulates temperature and removes waste by secreting water, sodium salts, and nitrogenous waste onto the skin.

Did you know? The hair shaft is actually made up of 3 different layers: the cuticle, medulla, and the cortex.

The Medulla is the innermost layer of the hair shaft found in only thick hair. It's a very soft and spongy material. This layer does not play a significant role in lash lifts.

The Cortex is the centre of the hair shaft and consists of keratin fibres. It is responsible for the strength, colour and texture of hair. The majority of the hair consists of this layer, which is made up of protein. Elasticity of the hair is due to the protein in the cortex. The main protein in the cortex is called keratin.

The Cuticle consists of 6 to 10 layers of long cell remnants that protect the cortex. The cuticle is the outermost layer of the eyelash. This layer is comprised of an overlapping layer of fish scale-like cells to protect the inner structure of the eyelash. The thicker the cuticle layer, the more protection the eyelash/hair has. Hair porosity is dependent on this layer. Some clients have non porous hair where the scales of the cuticle layer are very tight, and closed. Others may have porous hair where scales are more open. Porous hair allow lash lifting product to penetrate quicker.

CUTICLE

The hair cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair shaft. It consists of layers of dead cells. The cuticle layers can be loose, slightly bound or tightly bound. The processing time for a brow lamaination can be impacted by how the cuticle layers are arranged.

Loose Cuticle: Brow lift lotions can easily penetrate the hairs, therefore, will process very quickly.

Slightly Bound Cuticle: Brow lift lotions can easily penetrate the hair, therefore, will process very normally.

Tightly Bound Cuticle: Brow lift lotions cannot easily penetrate the hair, therefore, will take longer to process.

STRUCTURE

As we have mentioned earlier, the majority of hair is made up of keratin. Keratin is a strong, fibrous protein rich in the amino acid called cysteine. The shape of the hair (the structure of the hair shaft) is dictated by bonds that hold the keratin chains together. These bonds include hydrogen bonds, and disulfide bonds.

Hydrogen Bonds

This bond is easily broken by water or heat, and is therefore a weaker bond. Think about when you wash your hair – the shape of your hair is temporarily changed. However, once your hair dries, it goes back to the original shape. Another example is when you curl your hair with a curling iron – the shape is also temporarily changed, but is not permanent.

ANATOMY

EPIDERMIS

Epidermis is the outermost layer of skin. It is a tough layer that gets its strength from a protein called keratin. The strength of the Epidermis protects us from environmental factors. This layer is constantly being renewed through shedding and the regeneration of new cells from underneath. The Epidermis does not contain any arteries or veins, and is exclusively nourished by oxygen from its surroundings. The thickness of the Epidermis will vary from client to client, as it depends on factors such as exfoliation or sun exposure. generally, it takes 14 days for skin cells to regenerate and 4 weeks for the entire Epidermis to renew itself.

The Epidermis has 4-5 layers, depending on the area of the body. Areas which require more protection will have 5 layers, such as the palm of your hands or soles of your feet.

Stratum Corneum is the outermost layer of the epidermis that is made up of dead, mature skin cells called keratinocytes. These cells are constantly shed and replaced by cells from the lower layers of the epidermis. This is the layer that is shed off through exfoliation, sun exposure (peeling) or natural regeneration.

Stratum Lucidum is found in thicker skin and helps reduce friction between the stratum corneum and the stratum granulosum. This layer is only found is areas of the body which require more protection, such as the palm of oyur hands or soles of your feet. This layer is absent in the brow area. It’s composed of dead, flattened cells. 

Stratum Granulosum is where keratin is formed. The cells in this layer also produce materials that prevent evaporation, which helps waterproof the skin.

Stratum Spinosum contains the keratin-producing cells that were formed in the stratum basale. Keratin is a major structural component of the outer layers of skin. This layer contains contributes to the amount of moisture in the skin.

Stratum Basale forms the deepest layer. This layer anchors the Epidermis to the Dermal Layer The cells of this layer continuously divide and form new keratinocytes to replace the ones that are constantly shed. This layer also contains melanocytes, which are the cells that produce skin coloring.

DERMIS

The Dermis is the lower layer of the skin that contains collagen and elastic fibers that give flexibility and strength to the skin. It consists of a complex structure that contains glands, veins, arteries and hair follicles. The Dermis has 2 layers:

Papillary Layer is the top layer of the Dermis. It is composed of fine and loosely arranged collagen fibers.

Reticular Layer is the lower layer of the Dermis. It is composed of dense irregular connective tissue which has densely packed collagen fibers. This is also where hair follicles are rooted.

HYPODERMIS

The innermost layer of the skin that consists of adipose tissue, which acts as a shock absorber and helps conserve body heat. The thickness of this layer will vary in areas of the body. Areas where the skin is thinner, such as the eyelids, will have a thinner hypodermis.

CUTICLE

BROW LAMINATION

Brow Lamination is a process which the brow hairs are restructured and styled according to the desired outcome. It's a customizable service that can give brows more volume, fluff and definition. It accentuates the natural brow shape by repositioning the hair, creating a fuller and well-groomed appearance. It’s a great alternative to semi-permanent make up, as it is more natural and fluffy. Results can last up to 6-8 weeks with proper aftercare and depending on the clients natural hair growth cycle. 

Brow Lamination only restructures the hairs so they can be easily styled. The brows will not stay in a sleek and laminated style without the use of product. Proper styling products must be styled to brush and style the brows everyday to maintain the style. We recommend using our Brow Butter in the evening to provide the brows with the nourishment and hydration for long lasting results, and to use our Brow Pomade during the day to help achieve the sleek and laminated appearance. 

This section of the course is important to understand and be familiar with because it provides you with fundamental knowledge to help you achieve beautiful, long-lasting results. We will dive into detail about the science behind a brow lamination so that you fully understand the process every step of the way. You will realize that by understanding the science behind a brow lamination, it will help you troubleshoot issues you may encounter with your results.

How Does a Brow Lamination Work?

In the previous section on hair theory, you have learned that hair consists of protein chains called keratin. Keratin chains are held together by physical and chemical bonds - altering these bonds will change the shape of the hair. A physical change is when hair takes a new shape with heat or water, causing a temporary change. The shape is reset through the addition of water or heat. A chemical change is when the disulfide bonds (the bond between two sulfur atoms of neighboring cysteine amino acids in the keratin proteins) of the hair are broken and reformed, resulting in a permanent change. Brow lamination uses a Lift Lotion and Set Lotion to chemically change the hair structure for a permanent result.  

The results are only permanent for parts of the hair that have been processed. As the hairs grows out, the laminated hairs will grow out as well. The new growth will have to be processed to maintain a neat lamination. To make it easier to understand - if you dyed your hair a different color, you'll have to consistently touch up your roots as your hair grows out to maintain the color. 

INSTANT BROW LIFT SYSTEM

THE BROW SHOP is all about Science and Innovation. All our products go through extensive R&D to ensure that beautiful results can be achieve by every single Artist. 

The Instant Brow Lift System is a system that we created to evolve the industry and raise industry standards for Brow Lamination & Tints. Our system is the only one in the industry where a Lift AND Tint can be completed within 14 minutes - this is unheard of in the industry! Traditional systems take about 45 minutes to complete. We understand that time is money, so we created a system that would cut down appointment times without compromising results and will also restore and repair the lashes from within. After extensive research, trials and errors, we finally formulated the perfect system! 

The Instant Brow Lift System consists of a Lift Lotion that efficiently and effectively breaks the disulfide bonds, and a Set x Tint Lotion that rebuilds the disulfide bonds and can tint at the same time! We've completely eliminated the additional step needed to tint separately - we are the only system that makes this possible! 

Instant Brow Lift System is a Health Canada registered system. It is manufactured to comply with Health Canada Regulations. 

TYPES OF LIFT LOTIONS

A Lift Lotion is used to break the disulfide bonds in the hair. Remember that these bonds are what determine the shape of the eyelash hair shaft. The industry has three types of lift lotions: Acidic, Alkaline and Cysteamine. 

BROW LAMINATION PROCESS

The natural structure of each hair fibre is held together by disulfide bonds. Disulfide bonds are permanent bonds responsible for each fibre's strength and structure. During a lash lift, the disulfide bonds are broken so the fibre can be physically reshaped. Once the fibre is physically reshaped, the disulfide bonds are reformed so it permanently takes up the new shape.

There are two active lotions used during a lash lift: LiftLotion and SetLotion.

The Lift Lotion is the active lotion that adds hydrogen to break the disulfide bonds. Once the disulfide bonds are broken, the fibre becomes very soft and flexible, allowing it to be manipulated into any shape and direction.

The Set Lotion is the active lotion that removes the hydrogen to reform the disulfide bonds. Once the disulfide bonds are reformed, the fibre takes up the new shape permanently.

LIFT LOTION

SET LOTION

SodiumBromate and HydrogenPeroxide are common ingredients used for neutralizing.  

Sodium Bromate has been banned in Canada as of December 2019, and is now prohibited in all cosmetic products. In 2019, Health Canada issued a statement stating that “Sodium bromate is toxicologically equivalent to potassium bromate, which has been prohibited since March 2011 due to its carcinogenic potential, as assessed by the Government of Canada's Chemicals Management Plan”. What this means is that the chemical structure of sodium bromate is very similar to that of potassium bromate. When chemical structures are very similar, the function of the chemicals can also be similar. Since potassium bromate was banned in 2011 due to concern for causing cancer, Health Canada is concerned that sodium bromate could also cause cancer.

Using a Sodium Bromated-based lotion can result in voiding your insurance (if you are Canadian based) – it is a huge liability. Most International brands still contain Sodium Bromate as an ingredient for the set lotion since this ingredient is still an approved ingredient in many other countries. Always ensure to pay attention to the ingredients when purchasing lamination products internationally if you’re located in Canada.